Yesterday was 112 years since the birth of Vitaly Abalakova. The brothers vitaly and evgeny abalakovy are distinguished climbers, who have been on all the highest and motor mountain peaks of the USSR, osnovopoložniki of National Mountaineering, in which the of experience of stolbizma has been made.
The Alloy of stolbizma and mountaineering with the bright talents of the brothers brothers allowed a rapid rise in the level of the barely generated mountain sport of Russia’s lowland to the world By 1940, Soviet climbers on the number of people on the “Semitysâčniki” had reached the first place in the world.
Moving to krasnoyarsk played a fundamental role in the career of both brothers. Located in the vicinity of the city, the natural park “Pillars” has become a ground for the formation of brothers as climbers and manhood of their nature. This was facilitated by the “Pillars” rules adopted at that time, without insurance (rarely used long belt), in fashion there were free jumps from one tower to another. There’s a lot of “Abalakovskih” on the pillars.
In “FREE” from rock climbing time, he and his buddies were looking for adventures in campaigns, climbing the mountain backs sajan and altai, doing alloy on the rafts rivers.
In 1931, their first departure to the caucasus took place. Two Swiss broke down at the top of the misses-tau. Their group decided to participate in their search. And that’s all – without experience, with primitive equipment. At the end of the search, the group unanimously decided that it was so high to go even further, to the top of the dismount tau (5204 M). It was at that time one of the most difficult delivery routes of the caucasus.
On September 3, 1933, Eugene Abalakov made the first ever ascent to the highest point of the ussr – the peak of communism. The Peak of communism (then the peak of Stalin, and now the peak of ismoila somoni) is on pamir and has a height of 7495 meters. In his life, Eugene made a climb at least fifty vertices, conducted research, studied and put on maps the mountain ridges and glaciers of pamir and Tian-Shan.
In the absence of modern equipment, evgeny abalakov worked hard on its development. However, he was surpassed by his brother vitaly, also an outstanding climber. More than a hundred patents have been declared in the area of sports and non-Sports equipment. The and thought of в.м.абалакова has made a coup in alʹpinistskom equipment. For 40 years, the entire material part of mountaineering has been improved and recreating: Pitons, pick, cats, hammers, lavinnye scapula, boots, mittens, clothes, tents, sleeping bags, ropes, carbines, Samohvaty-Abalazy. … etc… Vitaly Abalakov, about 10 years old, was captain of the team of the climbers of the Central Council of swd “spartak”, who became a champion of the USSR In his account of climbing at the top of the country: Lenin Peak, peak of victory, peak Han-Tengri.